Brother Wolf
10th Aug 06, 12:29 AM
My most mechanized SM army are my Black Templars. These I have been collecting for quite some time, long before (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/gw/images/BT-BoxArmy.jpg) the newest Rhino chassis was available. Not wishing to simply toss aside my already cherished vehicles just because GW decided to upgrade the Rhino, nor purchase newer chassis which would look out of place beside the old ones, I have continued to scour eBay for the old versions to convert. Not to mention the fact that there is still no new Vindi at this time, (and I have 2).
I actually like the old Rhino chassis, esp. with the pewter extra armor bits. I don't like the old Razorback, however. The turret is ass. So I took it upon myself to create new Razorbacks from the old Rhino chassis. My force has had 2 Rzaorbacks and 2 Rhinos for a very long time, however I always found myself model subbing a Razorback for a Rhino or vice versa. So, with new gotten eBay gains in my possession, I decided to make 2 new Razorback/Rhinos with fully magnetized chassis to allow all of my common upgrades, giving me access to whatever models I wish without subbing.
The vehicles will always be available with Extra Armor & Smoke, (I consider them mandatory for all transports), but as options they will be magnetized to take;
-Dozer Blades
-Pintle Storm Bolter
-Searchlight
...they will be available in all three flavors
-Rhino w/ Storm Bolter
-Razorback w/ TL-HB
-Razorback w/ TL-LC
Supplies
Modern Rhino/Razorback Chassis;
One (1) Razorback (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=List_Models&code=302196&orignav=300866&ParentID=215407&GameNav=10) - $35
Razorback Turret Bits (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3839) - $5.99
If you get a new Razorback, your job is mostly done, (duh), but if you want to build older Rhinos or magnetize a new Rhino/Razorback with multiple weapons, you'll need a 2nd Razorback Turret Sprue. For $1 more, you can get the entire weapon sprue, but if you don't want all thos bitz hanging around, grab the bundle from Battlewagon above for $5.99.
Classic Rhino/Razorback Chassis;
One (1) Classic Rhino (http://cgi.ebay.com/Warhammer-40K-Chaos-Space-Marine-Rhino-OOP_W0QQitemZ300014588252QQihZ020QQcategoryZ44118QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) - $5-20 on eBay
One (1) Razorback Turret Sprue (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=Individual&code=99120101020&orignav=300866&ParentID=215407&GameNav=10&ItemNav=302196) - $7
Tank Turret Collar (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3916) - $1.25
Razorback Turret Bits (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3839) - $5.99
Plasticard Strips - $1.89 (measurements to follow)
You can also sub the Classic Whirlwind Top Plate (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=Individual&code=9947010105306&orignav=9) for $4 instead of grabbing the new turren collar. In my case, I am using new Rhinos which came as part of other box sets or what have you, (which I intend to use for other purposes), which is why I have ready access to the new turret collars.
Build Technique
Many of the techniques discussed here will also work on the current Rhino chassis and I'll try to sneak some examples in if I can. I think I have a half assembled Rhino waiting for a Battle Sister squad floating around I could use. I will, however, be primarily focusing on converting older Rhinos to hold a new Razorback turret.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Turret_PrepCompare_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Turret_PrepCompare_Pub.jpg)
Turret Collar Prep (click the image for full size version)
Note that I have trimmed the 'hinges' and the base of the turret ring off from the one on the right. If you do not intend on magnetizing the turret base so that you can convert the vehicle between Razorback/Rhino, then you need to trim some of the ring from the base in order to fit into the hole atop the old Rhino chassis properly. Using the plasticard spacers, (shown in the next step), this should not be necessary. I wish I had stumbled upon this idea while building the originals. NOTE: None of this is necessary if using the new Rhino chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Hull_Styrene_Sizing_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Hull_Styrene_Sizing_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-TurretCollarCloseUp_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-TurretCollarCloseUp_Pub.jpg)
Plasticard Spacer Sizing (click the image for full size version)
I keep tons of spare plasticard around the house and buy it whenever opportunity permits. I don't have the sizing on these at the moment, but their width fits perfectly between the hinges and the edge of the chassis as well as being the perfect height to clear the hinges. Simply laying them out along the perimeter is enough to get rough sizing. You can play with the fine tuning later. Once trimmed and set, these will be glued to the turret collar. DO NOT glue them to the Rhino or it'll make the top hatch look funny. A simple trick is to glue the sides on first, fluch with the back, and then trim the front/back pieces to fit. The picture on the right shows the semi-finished product before filling the groove & sanding. NOTE: None of this is necessary if using the new Rhino chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_Pub.jpg)
Rhino (click the image for full size version)
The Rhino shown with Extra Armor (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=List_Models&code=301297&orignav=301117&GameNav=301115), top/fire point hatch in place, Storm Bolter hatch and Pintle-Mount Storm Bolter hatch. (Track Guards/Headlamps and Smoke Launchers aren't ready to be added yet)
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rzbk_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rzbk_Pub.jpg)
Razorback (click the image for full size version)
Same Rhino as above, but with top/fire point hatch replaced by Razorback TL-HB turret. Stormbolter hatches have been replaced with 'blanks', but the PSB could obviously added back. Note the turret collar is held to the plasticard spacers w/ blu-tac. Once complete, the entire circumference of the turret collar will be ringed by the plasticard spacers and smoothed to remove any joins OR the heated needle technique will be employed to create a weld line. (Doubtful, since Rhino/Rzbk STC's would NEVER leave such unsightly things as weld lines).
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rzbk_AltTurrets_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rzbk_AltTurrets_Pub.jpg)
Razorback w/ Alt Turrets (click the image for full size version)
Razorback above with TL-Lascannon turret in place, showing TL-HB turret as an easy swap. With a little trimming, these turrets pop in & out really easy, swivel and pivot and can be removed quickly in the event of a Weapon Destroyed result, (death knell for this fragile transport)
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_RzbkExtras_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_RzbkExtras_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhinos_NewOld_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Rhinos_NewOld_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorbacks-NewOld_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorbacks-NewOld_Pub.jpg)
Rhino-Rzbk w/ All Options (click the image for full size version)
Rhino shown with most of it's 'extra bits'. Now that everything is trimmed & sized approriately, the build is pretty quick, relying mostly on getting the magnetization set up properly. Additional pictures show the newer MkII chassis next to it's older cousin. Careful planning might allow you to use all of the bitz on either chassis, but few people will have to worry about that. This is just to demonstrate that though we're building out most of this for an older chassis, everything is compatible with the newer chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_MiscMagBases_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_MiscMagBases_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhino-FullMagPrep_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Rhino-FullMagPrep_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhinoMkii-MagHatch_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/RhinoMkii-MagHatch_Pub.jpg)
Magnetizing The Three Top Hatches
First thing you need are some bits that will work for holding magnets/washers in the holes you are magnetizing, (see left pic). An old rhino top hatch fits right inside and cover up the top hatch as well as the crew hatches. It is almost perfect. Other solutions might be the window armor, (since I'm using the Extra Armor bitz, I have plenty of these lying around), or just bitz of sprue. Corner bitz tend to work very well and come with the model already. ;) Shown is a typical 1/4"d. 1/16"h. rare earth magnet. Small enough to use anywhere, but powerful enough to hold anything.
The 2nd thing to decide is how you want to magnetize. There are 3 options. 1) Magnetize the removable piece, use nickel washers in their mounting hole. 2) Magnetize the mounting hole and use nickel washers in the removable piece. 3) Magnetize both the removable piece and the mounting hole. Magnetizing both pieces is the strongest method. It is also, however, the most expensive. Not by much, but why use 6 magnets on 1 model when you can use 3 magnets each on 2 models? I traditionally magnetize the removable piece and use nickel washers in the mounting points on the model. This allows me to keep a metal strip in my transport case to attach all of my misc bitz to as well as to provide easy removal. This translates to less chipped paint.
The easiet way to do this is to use a bit of green stuff inside the removable piece to create a comfortable mount for the magnet. Stuff a little GS in teh piece, place the washer in the mounting hole push the magnet into the GS and press fit the removable piece into it's mount. This should create a near perfect, totally flat/level attachment between the washer and the magnet. This will provide the strongest bond. The pics to the left show the mounting surface for the washers and the washers themselfs in their mounting position. This is trial and error and you need to find the right size washers. Those pictured just happen to come from the multitude of vairous light fixtures I've mounted in my house as extra hardware. Free is good!
Liek all aspects of modelling, test fit your pieces to be certain they fit flush. Trim or change sizes as appropriate.
[/img] (][img)
Magnetizing The Lower Hatch/Dozer Blades
Description to follow
I actually like the old Rhino chassis, esp. with the pewter extra armor bits. I don't like the old Razorback, however. The turret is ass. So I took it upon myself to create new Razorbacks from the old Rhino chassis. My force has had 2 Rzaorbacks and 2 Rhinos for a very long time, however I always found myself model subbing a Razorback for a Rhino or vice versa. So, with new gotten eBay gains in my possession, I decided to make 2 new Razorback/Rhinos with fully magnetized chassis to allow all of my common upgrades, giving me access to whatever models I wish without subbing.
The vehicles will always be available with Extra Armor & Smoke, (I consider them mandatory for all transports), but as options they will be magnetized to take;
-Dozer Blades
-Pintle Storm Bolter
-Searchlight
...they will be available in all three flavors
-Rhino w/ Storm Bolter
-Razorback w/ TL-HB
-Razorback w/ TL-LC
Supplies
Modern Rhino/Razorback Chassis;
One (1) Razorback (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=List_Models&code=302196&orignav=300866&ParentID=215407&GameNav=10) - $35
Razorback Turret Bits (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3839) - $5.99
If you get a new Razorback, your job is mostly done, (duh), but if you want to build older Rhinos or magnetize a new Rhino/Razorback with multiple weapons, you'll need a 2nd Razorback Turret Sprue. For $1 more, you can get the entire weapon sprue, but if you don't want all thos bitz hanging around, grab the bundle from Battlewagon above for $5.99.
Classic Rhino/Razorback Chassis;
One (1) Classic Rhino (http://cgi.ebay.com/Warhammer-40K-Chaos-Space-Marine-Rhino-OOP_W0QQitemZ300014588252QQihZ020QQcategoryZ44118QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) - $5-20 on eBay
One (1) Razorback Turret Sprue (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=Individual&code=99120101020&orignav=300866&ParentID=215407&GameNav=10&ItemNav=302196) - $7
Tank Turret Collar (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3916) - $1.25
Razorback Turret Bits (http://www.battlewagon-bits.com/product/3839) - $5.99
Plasticard Strips - $1.89 (measurements to follow)
You can also sub the Classic Whirlwind Top Plate (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=Individual&code=9947010105306&orignav=9) for $4 instead of grabbing the new turren collar. In my case, I am using new Rhinos which came as part of other box sets or what have you, (which I intend to use for other purposes), which is why I have ready access to the new turret collars.
Build Technique
Many of the techniques discussed here will also work on the current Rhino chassis and I'll try to sneak some examples in if I can. I think I have a half assembled Rhino waiting for a Battle Sister squad floating around I could use. I will, however, be primarily focusing on converting older Rhinos to hold a new Razorback turret.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Turret_PrepCompare_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Turret_PrepCompare_Pub.jpg)
Turret Collar Prep (click the image for full size version)
Note that I have trimmed the 'hinges' and the base of the turret ring off from the one on the right. If you do not intend on magnetizing the turret base so that you can convert the vehicle between Razorback/Rhino, then you need to trim some of the ring from the base in order to fit into the hole atop the old Rhino chassis properly. Using the plasticard spacers, (shown in the next step), this should not be necessary. I wish I had stumbled upon this idea while building the originals. NOTE: None of this is necessary if using the new Rhino chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Hull_Styrene_Sizing_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Hull_Styrene_Sizing_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-TurretCollarCloseUp_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-TurretCollarCloseUp_Pub.jpg)
Plasticard Spacer Sizing (click the image for full size version)
I keep tons of spare plasticard around the house and buy it whenever opportunity permits. I don't have the sizing on these at the moment, but their width fits perfectly between the hinges and the edge of the chassis as well as being the perfect height to clear the hinges. Simply laying them out along the perimeter is enough to get rough sizing. You can play with the fine tuning later. Once trimmed and set, these will be glued to the turret collar. DO NOT glue them to the Rhino or it'll make the top hatch look funny. A simple trick is to glue the sides on first, fluch with the back, and then trim the front/back pieces to fit. The picture on the right shows the semi-finished product before filling the groove & sanding. NOTE: None of this is necessary if using the new Rhino chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_Pub.jpg)
Rhino (click the image for full size version)
The Rhino shown with Extra Armor (http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=List_Models&code=301297&orignav=301117&GameNav=301115), top/fire point hatch in place, Storm Bolter hatch and Pintle-Mount Storm Bolter hatch. (Track Guards/Headlamps and Smoke Launchers aren't ready to be added yet)
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rzbk_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rzbk_Pub.jpg)
Razorback (click the image for full size version)
Same Rhino as above, but with top/fire point hatch replaced by Razorback TL-HB turret. Stormbolter hatches have been replaced with 'blanks', but the PSB could obviously added back. Note the turret collar is held to the plasticard spacers w/ blu-tac. Once complete, the entire circumference of the turret collar will be ringed by the plasticard spacers and smoothed to remove any joins OR the heated needle technique will be employed to create a weld line. (Doubtful, since Rhino/Rzbk STC's would NEVER leave such unsightly things as weld lines).
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rzbk_AltTurrets_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rzbk_AltTurrets_Pub.jpg)
Razorback w/ Alt Turrets (click the image for full size version)
Razorback above with TL-Lascannon turret in place, showing TL-HB turret as an easy swap. With a little trimming, these turrets pop in & out really easy, swivel and pivot and can be removed quickly in the event of a Weapon Destroyed result, (death knell for this fragile transport)
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_RzbkExtras_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_RzbkExtras_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhinos_NewOld_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Rhinos_NewOld_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorbacks-NewOld_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorbacks-NewOld_Pub.jpg)
Rhino-Rzbk w/ All Options (click the image for full size version)
Rhino shown with most of it's 'extra bits'. Now that everything is trimmed & sized approriately, the build is pretty quick, relying mostly on getting the magnetization set up properly. Additional pictures show the newer MkII chassis next to it's older cousin. Careful planning might allow you to use all of the bitz on either chassis, but few people will have to worry about that. This is just to demonstrate that though we're building out most of this for an older chassis, everything is compatible with the newer chassis.
http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRazorback-Rhino_MiscMagBases_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Razorback-Rhino_MiscMagBases_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhino-FullMagPrep_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/Rhino-FullMagPrep_Pub.jpg)|http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/tnRhinoMkii-MagHatch_Pub.jpg (http://www.lunar-wolves.com/thecraft/images/OldRhino-NewRzbk/RhinoMkii-MagHatch_Pub.jpg)
Magnetizing The Three Top Hatches
First thing you need are some bits that will work for holding magnets/washers in the holes you are magnetizing, (see left pic). An old rhino top hatch fits right inside and cover up the top hatch as well as the crew hatches. It is almost perfect. Other solutions might be the window armor, (since I'm using the Extra Armor bitz, I have plenty of these lying around), or just bitz of sprue. Corner bitz tend to work very well and come with the model already. ;) Shown is a typical 1/4"d. 1/16"h. rare earth magnet. Small enough to use anywhere, but powerful enough to hold anything.
The 2nd thing to decide is how you want to magnetize. There are 3 options. 1) Magnetize the removable piece, use nickel washers in their mounting hole. 2) Magnetize the mounting hole and use nickel washers in the removable piece. 3) Magnetize both the removable piece and the mounting hole. Magnetizing both pieces is the strongest method. It is also, however, the most expensive. Not by much, but why use 6 magnets on 1 model when you can use 3 magnets each on 2 models? I traditionally magnetize the removable piece and use nickel washers in the mounting points on the model. This allows me to keep a metal strip in my transport case to attach all of my misc bitz to as well as to provide easy removal. This translates to less chipped paint.
The easiet way to do this is to use a bit of green stuff inside the removable piece to create a comfortable mount for the magnet. Stuff a little GS in teh piece, place the washer in the mounting hole push the magnet into the GS and press fit the removable piece into it's mount. This should create a near perfect, totally flat/level attachment between the washer and the magnet. This will provide the strongest bond. The pics to the left show the mounting surface for the washers and the washers themselfs in their mounting position. This is trial and error and you need to find the right size washers. Those pictured just happen to come from the multitude of vairous light fixtures I've mounted in my house as extra hardware. Free is good!
Liek all aspects of modelling, test fit your pieces to be certain they fit flush. Trim or change sizes as appropriate.
[/img] (][img)
Magnetizing The Lower Hatch/Dozer Blades
Description to follow