WIP Stage-by-stage 3: Nurgle Marine (Finished)

[Fiend]

WIP Stage-by-stage 3: Nurgle Marine.

Read first:

1. I often use Vallejo paints in addition to Citadel ones, these will be indicated by "V paintname". For reference: Vallejo colour chart and relation to Citadel colours (http://www.nugaming.co.uk/html/vallejo_paints.html), and standard Citadel colour chart (http://us.games-workshop.com/games/warhammer/painting/painting/paint_colour_chart.htm).

2. I'm aiming for a good, but efficient standard, neither an army standard nor a top-notch display standard, but somewhere in between. Perhaps an army character standard or a warband member standard, or in my case, an actually-getting-damn-figures-painted standard.

3. Photos won't be as clear as usual as I've needed to use a cruder set-up for the WIP photos.


Stage 0: Plan

This figure was chosen to be a contrast to both the previous figures i.e. the large clean areas and smooth lines of the Wraithguard, and the high contrast and varied detail of the Escher ganger. This time the focus is on mid-sized areas, a vaguely organic style, and a fair bit of metal. I'm hoping to capture the festering essence of Nurgle without being too messy nor having to spent too long created "neat mess" (i.e. when one paints something really well to look realistically messy).

Colour scheme planned is: Dull grey-ish green for the armour, fading into a more vivid pustulent green for where the armour is mutating, reddish coppery metal for the rims (just because I want to try this Vallejo colour), normal vaguely rusty metal for weapons and stuff, simple black/grey for the piping, the odd bit of bone, and that's about it. Might try layering up from darker tones this time.

Stage 1: Preparation

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle0a.jpg

Preparation was more involved with this as there were a few changes I wanted to make...

0 - Scraped and filed off mould lines etc etc as usual.
1 - Filed down the tops of the shoulders on the main model so the shoulder pads would sit neatly, and drilled out matching holes to pin them as the joins didn't feel solid enough (the backpack was okay though).
2 - Carefully cut off the raised rim of the left shoulder pad that was obscuring the Marine's view - bit of a stupid design really. This was tricky as I wanted to leave the little studs intact, so I had to carefully cut around them, then file the new rim smooth.
3 - The knife had to go, too puny! Suitable for a Gretchin maybe, not a Marine sergeant. It was clippered off then the hand filed flat.
4 - The axe came from a giant communal bitz box at a local games store (great resource, could spend ages digging in there). It's a Dwarf Warrior axe I think. It was trimmed and cut to shape, a small strip of wine bottle foil made the pommel, then it was pinned in place with a length of thin wire straight through the hand.
5 - The head was detailed with a bit of Green Stuff to make it more Nurgley and match the armour - I'm pleased with the way this came out as I'm a GS n00b ;).
6 - Some slate (yes, again! but it's so useful) was glued under the raised left foot.
7 - I put some Polyfilla on the base and scraped some grooves in it when wet, to make a muddy effect.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle0b.jpg http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle0c.jpg

Finally undercoated with Citadel Skull White spray and, as per Tinweasl's suggestion, washed with very thinned down Chaos Black to get some shading in the deeper recesses.


Speed: Slowwwwwwwww. But that's mostly the way I chose to do it with the minor conversion and stuff. Cleaning, gluing and basing alone wouldn't have taken long, except the arms might have still needed pinning.


Next: Base.

[Gru6y]

Hell Yeah!!!

[whats_true]

:clap:

Hold on, I got to make my popcorn. Sweet model man.

[Tinweasel]

Mmmm... wholesome pestilent goodness. Always been a fan of Nurgle's "style," although I've never painted anything like it myself.

[aceofchaos]

YEAH!!!!!!!!
finally some real marines ;)

[Voyager_I]

w00t, more minis!

[Thalasion]

Pffft, nurgle sucks, should've done Slaanesh....

[Dragoncurry]

Gosh you are SUCH a newb with GS. I mean comon, I play with playdoh all the time and even my playdoh looks better. Jeez man. (just jkin for all you hotheads)

[h4y4sh1]

cool a nurgle marine. can't wait to see how you aproach the "clean, but unclean" painting

[Dante]

"thats hawt"

Fianlly a step-by-step im interested in.

(the others were good...but didn't like those models :D )

[Scar Weaver]

Yeah, what they all said...

[Cobsy]

Pfft seen better...! Needs some highlights and shading. The base needs some work too.

[wing5wong]

Needs some highlights and shading
have you not realised that is just the undercoat...

[Cobsy]

have you not realised that is just the undercoat...

:jaw: Not quite the bite I was looking for... Dude, of course I know it's just the undercoat! :D

[Alien Egg]

cool

[Fiend]

Stage 1: Base

Going for a muddy look rather than gravel or grass. But the slates crept in there somehow. They were undercoated with a mix of V Bone White and Chaos Black, and highlighted with a few drybrushes with an increasing proportion of V BW. Then...

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1a.jpg http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1b.jpg http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1c.jpg

Mud was undercoated with 3 thin coats of V Cobra Leather.
Then very thin Scorched Brown was painted into the recesses.
First highlight was thinned V CL + Skull White, roughly layered onto the raised areas.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1d.jpg http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1e.jpg http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle1f.jpg

Second highlight was V CL + more SW, again layered onto the raised areas.
Final highlight was V CL + more SW, roughly lined onto a few prominent areas. This was fairly pale to try to make the next step work.
The mud was then washed with a slightly thinned Black + Yellow Ink mix.

The idea was to get a more fetid look. This reminded me why I don't like ink washes, they are unpredictable and messy. This one didn't pool in all the recesses so I had to paint some more into the recesses. It's okay, hopefully varnish and a spot of PVA glue will even out the effect.

Speed: Okay. Mostly waiting for coats to dry. I tried to avoid getting caught up in spending too much time on it.

Next: Grey-green armour. A big stage.

[nyyti]

Wow that looks so real. I wish I could do that fine bases.

[Gru6y]

Well, this guide is here to help you.

[aceofchaos]

and so it begins...;)

[whats_true]

So you use ink to make the wter effect instead of glue? Must deffinatly try that one.

[Fiend]

Stage 2: Armour

A big mofo of a stage this since it's about 80% of the model and takes in a wide variety of sections. I had this cunning plan to layer up from a dull green, and keep the main armour a dull green and the more organic bits a slightly slimier green. This kinda worked. I also had a cunning plan to mostly do layering instead of blending. This sucked.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2a.jpg

Basecoat: V Yellow Olive - which is not yellow olive at all, it's a dark camo green, and only needed one coat, and V Cayman Green on the organic bits.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2b.jpg

First highlight layer: thinned V YO + Skull White mix on the armour, V CG + Skull White mix on the organic bits. This looked fairly sucky, scruffy around the edges.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2c.jpg

Second highlight layer: thinned V YO + more SW mix on the armour, V CG + more SW mix on the organic bits. This looked even suckier, with a brighter colour the roughness of layering was showing.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2d.jpg

Third highlight layer: thinned V YO + more SW mix on the armour, V CG + more SW mix on the organic bits. To try to reduce the suckiness, I mostly painted this layer by brushing thin diagonal lines away from the highlighted areas.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2e.jpg

Fourth highlight layer: thinned V YO + more SW mix on the armour, V CG + more SW + Bad Moon Yellow mix on the organic bits. This went back to a bit sucky again as the highlights were too close to use diagonal lines. But at least it was showing some definition.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2f.jpg

In a desperate attempt to salvage some smoothness, thinned V Yellow Olive was blended into the recesses, and V Cayman Green was painted in the recesses between the organic strands.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2g.jpg

Final highlight lining of V OY + plenty of SW on the armour, painted down the upper edges of the armour, and V CG + plenty of SW + Bad Moon Yellow on the organic bits, done down all the sharpest raised surfaces.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle2h.jpg

Finally everything was carefully lined with thinned Chaos Black.


Just managed to get a decent result out of it, but I don't think it was the right choice to simply layer from a dark colour upwards, particularly not since a lot of the armour is recessed. Starting from a mid-tone and shading down as I usually do might have been neater. I'm pleased with the two shades of green idea, they are subtle but make the mutating armour more distinctive.

Speed: Slow and tedious. Due to various things: Firstly it being a huge area of the model. Secondly because painting the same colour all the time drove me mad and I had to take lots of breaks (near the end I was struggling to focus my eyes), and thirdly I wasn't happy with the crude layering so I had to keep tweaking it. Obvious for a more army style one could keep the layering simpler.

Next: Armour trim.

[Fiend]

Replies:

Gruby:
Well, this guide is here to help you. :werd: indeed, I hope it does, and if people need stuff explaining more or whatever, just ask.

Whats_true: I used the ink to get a slimey murky colour, not really for the gloss effect as I will varnish over it anyway. I will use some PVA glue after varnishing to make it a bit gloopier.

[Dragoncurry]

OMFG MAN WTF, YOu make it sound so easy. I oughta go slap myself. That is the sexiest nurgle armor ever.

[whats_true]

My gosh, that looks like it took a couple of hours. Would drive any man crazy :crazy: doing that much highlighting. Can you show the front view.

[Ap0k]

A small hint on when you go back over the base with varnish (I'm gonna assume gloss). You may or may not find it useful, but when I was doing my muddy base, i alternated layers of wash with varnish, so if you want a darker tone that still semi-transparent, maybe trying that out will help (I think I used just normal Brown Wash over 'Ard Coat, with about 3 layers of each (alternating)).

The nice thing about that method i found was that the wash slightly tinted the varnish on each stage, so it got slightly dulled while staying reasonably 'watery'.

[Gonzo]

I am gawking at how awesome fiend is rather than making this a learning exp... Have you ever entered GD fiend?

[h4y4sh1]

very nice dude :) looks much better than my typhus

[Cobsy]

Hey Fiend, how'd you find painting over the white w/ black wash as apposed to a plain white/black undercoat?

[Dragoncurry]

And I thought this would be nice to poiint out since a lot of people forget this when they see great models. Fiend did 7 layers of highlighting so thats why it looks great and sexy. Which one of you did seven layers of highlighting ever on any model?(Rhetorical exagerration) After you have you will be like, "hey omg!!,does mine look super sexy too? Hell yea baby!!" Just a point that a lot of people miss. Don't look at your model and shake your head.

QUESTION TIME WOOO!!!
Fiend, you put a lot of effort into this step.
Do you by chance know around how many hours this took? And how much you had to thin your paints so that after 7 layers it doesnt look thick?

[Fiend]

Stage 3: Armour trim

I wanted to try out this Vallejo colour I found, Beaten Copper, a nice reddish colour, which would contrast well with the armour and be a suitable chaotic colour. Unfortunately in GW's fantastic new "3 shades of yellow, 3 hundred shades of brown" colour range, there isn't a direct equivalent, but bronze or brass would be similar.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle3a.jpg

Base coat was one coat of V Beaten Copper, which covered pretty well.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle3b.jpg

Shading was with Tin Bitz, mostly just dabbed on around the studs, but also blended a little where the trim met another bit of the figure.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle3c.jpg

Final shading was Black Ink blobbed on the studs, and thinned Chaos Black lined where the trim met another bit of the figure. The black ink is a bit glossy so I only used that on the trim/stud boundaries.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle3d.jpg

Highlight was a V Beaten Copper + Mithril Silver mix, lined around the edges of most of the trim (where the trim was too thin, I just lined it onto the most prominent edges), and dotted onto the studs.

This worked pretty well, although the shading and highlighting did tone down the rich colour a bit. Choosing natural tones for these meant that simple painting techniques were suitable.

Speed: Slowish but that's because there's a fair amount of trim and one has to be really neat with it, as it's a thin line that's only just distinct from the armour beneath. The actual techniques used were as quick as they could be so I think that's efficient enough overall.

Next: Piping or metal areas or something similar.

[Fiend]

Replies...

Apok, thanks for the tip but I've found that a coat of PVA glue over Satin Spray varnish works fine for me - I'm not intending to have really glossy mud just slightly slimey.

B-squiggle,
I am gawking at how awesome fiend is rather than making this a learning exp... :Slap: No, bad b-squiggle, no! Learn! Well, if these WIPs are suitably educational, I hope...

Cobsy, I'm finding the grey-ish undercoat is working well for this, although that's as much to do with having some colours that actually cover well as anything else. However, the wash does mean that some inaccessible cracks/recesses are a dark grey rather than a glaring white, which is useful. Obviously black would have done that but then the colours might not have covered so well.

DragonC, yup this step did take some effort....It was only 5 layers of actual highlighting though (+ basecoat, bit of reparative shading, and black lining).

I think it took about 4-6 hours. Obviously quite a long time. But bear in mind that it is THE major part of the figure and involves probably as much painting as the rest put together. Also, I probably could have done it with less layers and blending instead.

To thin the paint, I think I used about 3:1 paint to water, however this is with Vallejo paints which are thinner anyway. Citadel would maybe require 2:1 thinning. I also only had a little bit on my brush for the layering, so I could build up the layers gradually.

[Fiend]

Stage 4: Ribbing/piping

A short, simple step that I think is worth showing as such features are ubiquitous to many models. I tend to go for plain neutral colours to look more realistic and to avoid distracting the eye from the main features of the figure.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle4a.jpg
Basecoat of thinned Chaos Black.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle4b.jpg
Carefully lined along the ribs with V Cold Grey. This had to be done with the point of the brush as the whole area is recessed. Where the ribbing is raised, gently rubbing the side of the brush along it is quick and effective.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle4c.jpg
Carefully lined along the ribs, nearer the centre, with V Stonewall Grey. Just to make them a bit more prominent. This went over in a few places so I tidied it up with thinned CB. On the subject of mess you can see some authentic mess where I missed the armour trim on the left leg ;).

I had to leave the backpack ribbing until later as I'm holding the figure with that part. I also painted the axe handle in a similar way, but highlighted it with V Earth then V Khaki to give a more leathery look and make it different from the ribbing.

Speed: Quick although not as quick as if the ribs were all raised. No point wasting fancy techniques in these areas unless they're a major part of the figure.

Next: Metal axe etc.

[BlindManBoots]

Just out of curiosity, have you ever entered Gold Deamon. From the looks of it, you could kill it in the Single Mini part of it.

[Fiend]

Stage 5: Metal bits

Going for a grimy but not too rusty look, I want the metal bits to be distinct from the coppery armour trim. I followed the "longer" method that I posted in the FAQ for this, with a couple of tweaks. There's only a few other metal bits on the model that are simple to paint, the axe is a prominent feature and deserved more attention:

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5a.jpg

Basecoat of a mix of Chainmail and Tin Bitz to get a slightly browner look than the usual Boltgun Metal.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5b.jpg

Shading with a thinned Black Ink wash, then with Tin Bitz blended into the recesses.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5c.jpg

More shading with Black Ink blended into the recesses. This dulls down the sparkle of the Tin Bitz a bit.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5d.jpg

First highlight of Chainmail lining the edges and blended towards the "shallow" edges in the middle of the blade. The outer edges are left clean for...

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5e.jpg

Final highlight of the Mithril Silver, firstly lined onto the blade edges, and also painted a series of fine (ish!) lines towards the edge on the outer blade part. This is to draw more attention to the blade and give it a crudely sharpened look. This technique is pretty quick, you just need a fine brush and practise a couple of times first.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle5f.jpg

Glaze of thinned Black + Brown Ink to add some grimyness and smooth out the colours a bit.

Seem to turn out quite nice. The green mutated bit on the axe will be tidied up later on, I'm going to spend a bit more time tidying up the armour near the end.

Speed: Quick. Apart from waiting for washes to dry. No awkward bits here. Metals seem to work pretty well with washes and just a bit of shading/highlighting.

Next: A few details and the bone bits.

[@licomb]

Dude you want to put all these painting guides into a website or PDF or something as they are pretty damn amazing guides.

[Dragoncurry]

Highlighting the outer part of that axe chainmail to look like it was reflecting light was genius. Thanks for sharing all this stuff with us. I know a few good painters who wouldn't go through this process.

[Fiend]

Stage 6: Skulls

Another area where I have my own favourite method. This is one I discovered recently - in contrast to the bright, colourful bone of the Wraithguard's gun for example, this style is a duller, earthier look. I painted all the bone the same way, including the Marine's "head" - I wanted a link between the dead skulls on the armour and the "live" skull he has, making the whole concept seem yet more repulsive. A friend once ranted about Nurgle that whilst succumbing to most chaos powers is vaguely comprehensible, you've got to be a bit of twat to be seduced by plague, disease, and the eternity of rotting that Nurgle promises. Anyway...

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle6a.jpg

Eyesockets and the edge of the skull was painted Chaos Black. Then it was basecoated with V Earth.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle6b.jpg

Layered with V Earth + V Khaki mix, leaving a little V E near the edges.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle6c.jpg

Layered with pure V K, more towards the raised parts.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle6d.jpg

Layered with a V K + Skull White mix on the raised areas.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle6e.jpg

The eyes, nose, and teeth were redefined with thinned Chaos Black. Then finally the very edges were lined with pure Skull White.

This looks a bit harsher in the photo than it actually is, but anyway at a relatively small size a bit of roughness doesn't matter.

Speed: Medium, I went through 5 stages to make it smoother (despite the pic) with just layering. However this style can be done in 3 stages (Earth, Khaki, White) with blending or indeed just layering, and will still look effective.

Next: Tidying up, some details, adding some pus and slime and general disgustingness to the armour etc.

[Fiend]

Replies...

Blindmanboots, no I haven't (well, I did many years ago but my figure got disqualified for being "too converted", this was a very different era of GD and indeed painting standards). The GD standard at the moment is *very* high and I find that too intimidating.


Alicomb, yes I will do that sometime in the near future after this one is completed. I'll put them on my site and put the links in the FAQ thread.


Mr Curry, glad you're finding it useful. BTW the glint at the very top (picture-wise) of the blade IS light reflecting, not some fancy painting effect :).

[aceofchaos]

lookin good :)

[Jono]

Very nice, I have been looking around the net recently for a good deathguard tutorial but without much luck. I only wish you had posted this a couple of weeks ago, then mine would have turned out better.

[Dante]

too convereted!!?!?!

:wtf:

Oh that sux.

I think you should try again...

[Dragoncurry]

Fiend, ever thought of doing a W.I.P on how to take pictures? WHere you put your lights and stuff. lol that would be sexy. I see about the glint lol, it sure got me lmao.

[Tinweasel]

Just a suggestion to make the ribbing a little easier. What I've been doing with my Marines is painting all the ribbing Codex Grey, and then putting a very thin Black wash over the top. It ends up looking about the same color as your middle step, only without the hassle of painting on very narrow lines - I let the wash do the work for me.

Not sure if the Skull White highlighting on the green looks "chalky" on your end, but it kinda does in the pics on mine. I think to tone down the whitish color, you could maybe use Bleached Bone for any other Nurgle models - it's still a light color but it's got hints of yellow so it maybe wouldn't look as out of place when working up to it from a diseased green?

The model's turning out looking great, and the semi-conversions you did turned out well, I think! Another impressive miniature...

@ Jono - always been a fan of this page: http://www.dropship.org.uk/projects/40k026.asp Pity it hasn't been updated in near forever. He's a helluva painter. There's also a few good other sites for Nurgle schemes that I've seen, but I don't have links handy.

[Fiend]

Stage 7: Gribbly bits

DIY gribblage in two easy steps!

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle7a.jpg

Normal armour after previous painting.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle7b.jpg

Paint a blob of Skull White in the middle of the septic orifice, and a couple of thin lines of Skull White streaking downwards from it. Make sure they go vertically down.

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/tut3_nurgle7c.jpg

Carefully paint over the area with a thinned mix of Red and Brown Inks. If this covers the white and a tiny bit around it, it looks more effective. Then make sure a bit of the ink pools into the orifices.

Yum!

Delicious AND nutritious!

Speed: Quick. Though you do need to be careful to avoid messing up the previous painting with the inks.

Next: That's pretty much it apart from some tidying and neatening up - I spend a bit of time neatening and trying to make the figure look crisp, but if you're careful and not bothered about small mistakes it can be pretty quick to finish up.

[Fiend]

Replies:

Mistah Curry, errr no I haven't really. These photos are fairly low quality ones as they are taken at the painting area without putting much effort into the set-up. I just put a white box beneath the figure, focus the camera, turn the light on so it brightens up, and take them.

Tinwsl: Thanks for the tips. The Skull White does look a bit, errr, white, as I say that's mostly the photo although it's still definitely white in reality. I quite like that look, it makes it look....errr....I dunno how to describe it? Less colourful and more dead.

[Voyager_I]

yay, finished pic soon!

[Fiend]

Finished figure:

http://www.fiendy.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/figures/nurglemarine1.jpg

Mmmmm gribble gribble.

Well, I like it, I'm pleased with the colour scheme in particular (though it's a bit muted). I also have found the axe conversion has been crucial to defining the model - I didn't think that much of it at first, just "the knife sucks", but during painting I realised how big a difference it makes.

Painting-wise this was a bit of a mixed bag. The armour was quite tedious and I didn't do it very efficiently, layering didn't work so well so I had to spend time neatening it up. However the colour worked, and once that was done the rest of it was fairly straightforward although care had to be taken. Overall it didn't take any longer than the Escher ganger but I had to paint it in shorter spells. I think it could have been made more efficient by a better technique for the armour, e.g. shading down from a mid tone, and neater, simpler lining on the mutating bits.

Things I learnt or re-learnt during this:

- Using natural tones makes painting stages easier, this really is useful.
- Layering can be tricky to make look good on some painting areas, it may be best to make a decision to go for simpler layering or pure blending rather than somewhere in between.
- However layering works well (and quicker) on small details, especially with the right paint tones.
- When trying unusual ideas (e.g. the two toned armour), going for a subtle approach initially is good to keep them sensible.
- Colour scheme choice is important.

......

That's it, last tutorial. At some point I will put them on a normal webpage and link them in the FAQ. Hope they've been useful :).

:werd:

[Dragoncurry]

Very smooth. Very nice. I liked your tutorials a lot man. Thanks a bunch.

[Gonzo]

To much blue. MY GOD IT IS BEAUTIFUL!!!!

[whats_true]

I miss one day and your already finished :lol: That definatly looks great. The Axe realy gives the model some character to it. The trimming turned out great as well.

Now all I'm waiting for is the Web page :)

[h4y4sh1]

great nurgle mini...very nice :) and very quick too

[Hellscape]

jesus christ :O



your amazing yet again



do you actually work in a gw or for eavy metal or something , if you dont , apply haha


your painting is immense

[Dante]

It didn't look so blue during WIP...

But still awsome. All that grungy stuff gives it a very nurgly look.

:beer:

[Wynter]

what an awsome job Fiend.... Your definatly an inspiration mate :thumb:

[Draken2034]

how bout a vehicle? anyways, great job, really awesome.

[Fiend]

Errrrr it doesn't look so blue in real life either. I'm not entirely happy with that photo, for some reason it didn't take so well. There isn't any blue used on the figure but the green (V Yellow Olive highlighted with pure white) is very grey green...

Draken, sorry, no more tutorials. Although *if* I were to do one a vehicle would be a good choice.

[Thalasion]

No, you need to do an ogre maneater, have you seen those things, they rule......

[metalfan666]

I really like how, at least in the photo, the area around the eyes/head/skull are the highlighted the brightest, which draws attention to them very nicely.

Also, i really can't express how awesome that model is. Fiend=better than 'Eavy Metal.

[Fiend]

Cheers for that metalfan, yes I did do a bit of extra highlighting around the head/helmet to draw attention to it. It's a generally recommended technique to determine what are the most prominent and important parts of a model, and take a bit of extra care to make sure they stand out.

P.S. Don't get too carried away with this, Eavy Metal standard is excellent and definitely superior on characters etc, AND they do it all the time for deadlines and shit...

[Lord_Calgar445]

still think you should carry on :p

[Reapray]

Love the basework, it'll really help me out.

[ChunkyMrEvil]

Very old thread, though I'm not too angry considering I get to see Fiend's cool minis again :beer: