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Black Templar Terminator Tutorial

  1. #1
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    Black Templar Terminator Tutorial

    First tutorial! whoo..
    So I am making this tutorial about how I paint Black templar teminators! And to start of I will just say.. I am not Ap0k! My painting skills are no near any competion level and if someone makes one better.. I will just back away...
    anyway back to the tutorial:
    A starting tip: I ALWAYS thin down my paints!
    First thing is to convert them! Black Templar terminators are not like normal terminators they are more ornate and such so convertion is needed
    I start by undercoat the model with chaos black. Some paint
    it on but I spray it on...

    Stage 1: the white shoulder pad:
    I start Out by painting it Fortess grey.

    Dont worry about the paint getting anywhere you dont want it. It will be painted black agian in a later stage.
    Then I paint layers of skull white:

    This time you need to paint mutiple layers to get it right. thats how the damn white works

    Stage 2: The tabard, purity seals and skulls!
    I start out by painting them all Scorched brown:

    Again dont worry about the paint getting anywhere you dont want it. It will be painted black again in a later stage.
    Then layer on Bestial brown:


    Then I layer on the skulls Gravyard earth:
    the tabard and seals are layered with Snakebite leather:


    Now I layer on Bleached bone on it all again:


    To finsih them of I highlight them with a 50/50 mix of Bleached Bone and Skull White:


    Stage 3: Reds and Eyes!
    First clean up the areas where you want red with chaos black.
    first thing I do is paint Scab red. but NOT on the eyes yet:


    Next I layer Red Gore on. Here I paint allround the front 3/4's of the eyes. Leave a little black in the black corner:


    Now I paint the areas Blood Red. In the eyes its only the front half of the eyes:


    Now I mix Blazing Orange with Blood Red (50/50) and edge hightlight the red areas. The eyes get a thin Blazing Orange line in the front half instead(the red areas are done):


    To finish off the eyes I paint a little dot of white in the back corner of the eyes:


    Stage 4: The Cruxs
    To start of the paint the cruxs i paint it the foundation paint Adeptus Battlegrey(If you dont have foundation paints codex grey mix with chaos black will do) as a basecoat:


    Then I layer Codex grey on. Leave the former layer showing in the reseases:


    To finish it I highlight it with Fortress grey:


    Stage 5: Metal:
    I paint All the areas I want metal(cables, the storm bolter and small bolts and such) with Boltgun metal:


    Then I wash it with Black ink(exept the gun's case) and then layer chainmail on(highlight the case with chainmail):


    To finish of I highlight the with Mithril Silvergold areas are painted: Basecoat: Shining Gold then wash brown ink on and highlight with a mix of Shining gold and Mithril silver) :

    (some of the metal area pics are lost in space.. sorry)

    Stage 6: The Black armor:
    Now its time to clean up the model.. paint Chaos Black over the spots you didnt want paint on but it did...
    Then start highlighting the armor with Adeptus Battlegrey on all edges:


    Now highlight it with Codex grey this time not in the deeper areas:


    Last highlight is Fortress grey. Only on the upper areas:


    Stage 7: Base:
    Paint it Bestial Brown.
    Overbrush with Snakebite Leather.
    And drybrush Bleached Bone:


    Stage 8: freehand stuff:
    Now you may wanna put some Templar crosses on the mini.. A tip is to put them where there arent so much else. Like on this ones left leg or powerfist..

    Finished mini:

    FINISHED!!
    C&C Are Welcome And Appreciated!
    Last edited by Sir Clausel; 17th Jul 07 at 3:44 PM.
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  2. #2
    Member Dragoncurry's Avatar
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    I really like your tabards. Expect to see them on my marines =D.
    Well, i'll stick to my easy way of highlighting, just gloss.
    -Famousish

  3. #3
    Yeah when i do my blood angels some of them are having talbards. Nice tutorial!

  4. #4
    Dr.Know
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    I might suggest that you put an even layer of VMC Stonewall Gray and put on VMC Ice Blue for the shoulder pads. It helps to bring them out more with the tiniest touch of blue. And the tabards, which i think are magnificent, should have a slightly lighter color beneath them. Ill show you a pic when i can but right now its late. And instead of adding white to brighten the colors, add VMC Ivory instead. Its not as harsh and will not make the model look "chalky."

  5. #5
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    thanks for the comments guys!
    @ Dr. know: thanks for the tips but I dont have any VMC paints. Only GW(+foundation)
    anything from that range that would help..?
    Btw just updated the tutorial!

  6. #6
    Dr.Know
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    Sir Clausel, If you do not have any Vallejo paints, first off I encourage to start buying some, but if you are happy with GW then the closest to the paints are: VMC Stonewall Gray= GW Fortress gray; VMC Ice blue= theres not really a paint close to that so just stick to Skull white; VMC Ivory also does not have a GW equal. Its kind of like the TINIEST amount of Bleached Bone added to skull white. Here are a couple pics:




    The shoulder pad is made up of an even, solid coat of VMC Stonewall Gray, then layers upon layers of VMC Ice blue. For the effect that you see on my Templar, you must use a solid coat of Stonewall Gray below it or else it will become "too blue". Its a bit different in real life, but you might be able to see the difference between Ice blue and white. And below it are the colors (in order from left to right) White, Ice Blue, Ivory, and Bleached Bone. For comparison.

  7. #7
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip.. I think I am going with GW paints.
    The tutorial is updated again!

  8. #8
    Shadow Nugz
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    The tabards are amazing. Black and scorched brown, graveyard earth, skull white. All turn it out to be a very nice looking piece of cloth... beats my method of black base coat then Apple Barrell Antique White (I am too cheap to buy GW paints)

  9. #9
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    @ acually its: scorched brown, bestial brown, snakebite leather, bleached bone and then a mix of Bleached bone and skull white
    Btw tutorial is finished!
    Last edited by Sir Clausel; 12th Jul 07 at 6:28 AM.

  10. #10
    Ninja_of_DooM
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    Well done there! I especially like the loincloth and tabard you've got there. The highlights on the armour are great too. The whole thing is damned good.

    I'm sure the model looks a whole lot better at actual size too. it's always a pain to judge a mini on a picture of this size, where you can see every little thing.

  11. #11
    Great job on the eyes

    Do you water down the blood red or leave it as it is, seeing as it is already thin.

  12. #12
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    I watered it down.. All my paints are watered down. The thiner they are from the start then I just put a little less water in the mix...

  13. #13
    Thanks for the above answer, I know you must be tired of hearing from me :-P

    Anyways, for the highlights? do you use the citadel fine detail brush or do you use another type? I'm a fan of those thick highlights and would like to know what brush works best.

    Anyways..thanks in advance and awesome looking model.

  14. #14
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    I use GW own brushes because they simple work well and are made for painting minis. and yea I use the fine detail brush for the highlights.

    Just ask questions as long as you need them. Or pm me if want that instead. Im more than happy to help!

  15. #15
    Drop-wise, what would work with the blood red? 2-3 medium-sized drops?

    Thanks

  16. #16
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    As said many times by many great men/painters its hard to tell how much to thin down. It should be around milk contisity I think...

  17. #17
    driftster
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    Vitamin D? Low Fat? Skim? Fat Free? Super Skim?

  18. Forum Subscriber  #18
    Member Invictus's Avatar
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    Cow's milk? Sheep's milk? Goat's milk? Breast milk?

    You can generally tell by doing the following:

    1. Put some paint on a tile (or whatever you use for your pallette).

    2. Add water (just wait for the next step).

    3. The ideal thickness/thinness is when the mixture of water and paint is just about consistent through the entire body of the paint without any trasnlucent/transparent areas (basically, the thinnest you can go while retaining a solid colour).
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  19. #19
    driftster
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    Now are we talking Ceramic tile porcelain tile quarry tile agglomerate tile? Terracota?

  20. #20
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    Oh well didnt think it would an issue about the consitisy of milk.. well doh!
    well yeah as Invictus said allright! ...... I'll go back into my cave again and shoot myself!

  21. Tabletop Senior Member Company of Heroes Senior Member Forum Subscriber  #21
    Don't make me angry. Ap0k's Avatar
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    Guys, can we keep this to specific feedback about the tutorial itself? Rather than random painting related queries that are much more suitable for the main P&M section. While a level of discussion is appreciated in tutorial threads, it's expected to be topical, so thinning questions, highlighting questions, and pretty much anything that doesn't directly relate to the tutorial itself is something not only better discussed elsewhere, but, frequently, readily accessable via the search function/stickies.

  22. #22
    Emporors Finest
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    is the regular space marine helmet on the terminators just for the templars or can any army use the regular helmet, and is their a specific reason for using the regular helmet over the terminator helmet, like are they a special unit, or is it just a style thing.??

  23. #23
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
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    I just gave him a tac helmet to make the whole feel of the model just more... black templar-ish

  24. #24
    Emporors Finest
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    awesome, i really like the look of your termies, i was condidering going for the black templars but i have decided to stick with my dark angels, but yea awesome painting, i wish i could paint as well as you.

    lol

  25. #25
    Member [Chosen]'s Avatar
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    I personally like the gun effect and the simplicity of the technique it self. Just one thing that I would like to pick on. Please notice the edges are still a little too rough. I personally would recommend more layers of gradual whitening and a more through sense of light. And also a tiny little thing about the writings, please note that any writing that is made of a strict line look out of place. Anyone should try to make it curve alittle at some point and make the sense of lettering.

    But through and through, nice technique for beginners. And definitely the work into this tutorial is very much appreciated. Good job and keep it up.

  26. #26
    Member [MaGiC]'s Avatar
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    my only thought is I think there is to much highlighting on this termie.. as hor highlights show that there's light on the edge so I would go with source lighting highlights IMO
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