Well it was asked for so here is how i paint my Ultramarines.
1. Cut the pieces from the sprues and file down the mold lines.
2. Stick the torso together with polystyrene (sp?) cement glue, as well as any other bits you want to part of the model (i.e purity seals to the legs/shoulder pads/gun, standard to the backpack etc). Also use a pin vice to drill holes in the gun.
3. Use GW Black Spray paint to undercoat the pieces of the model, making sure you have a nice even coat.
4. Use a GW small dry brush and drybrush Ultramaines blue all over the model pieces, making sure that you remove the excess paint from the brush. Dry brush the model twice to have a nice coat.
5. For the next part i use a GW basecoating brush and dip it once into UB up till the end of the brushes (but not all the way). I repeat this dipping process till i have done it 10 times and then i try and get most of the paint onto my mixing plate. If i am painting two models at a time i do this another one or two times till i think i have enough paint to spread between the two, if it's just one then through experience i judge how much i need. Next i get Skull White and dip the brush again for about 5 dips, then i mix it into the UB till it's all mixed in, if it's just one then 2 or 3 dips is enough (although it's down to experience). This is your first highlight stage.
6. Once the paint has been mixed i drybrush the whole of the model (or both if painting two) twice.
7. Now that the second drybrushing stage has been done i start on the details of the model. All metal parts i paint boltgun metal - i'll leave it up to you to decide what parts are these as it's personal preference.
8. Next i paint the chest eagle and the rim of the shoulder guards Brazen Brass. As well as any extras ive added that i plan on either being brass or gold.
9. If im painting a Sgt then the helmet for the model will have been left out of the drybrushing stage, instead it would have been base coated with the foundation paint Mechrite Red. Then two or three layers of blood red is painting on. If it's a Vet Sgt then foundation paint Astronomicon Grey will have been painted on down the middle of the helmet (vet sgts have a white stripe). Then skull white layered on top of the grey.
10. Once the details have been painted i then mix up a 10 dip skull white to 2-5 dip UB mix for the final highlight. This colour is drybrushed once all over the model (only on the blue areas of course).
11. Next i go over all the colours i previously painted on, touching them up incase i got blue on them. Then i paint shining gold over the areas that have brazen brass painted (unless i want the part to be made out of brass).
12. The gun and handle get painted black.
13. The eyes are painted red (blue for Sgts).
14. The purity seals have the wax painted scab red, the parchment is painted scorched brown and then bleached bone.
15. Next i get my base coating brush and dip it into Black Ink and then i get as much as possibly off onto my mixing plate. I then wash the brush, dry it and repeat this process a further 1-3 times. Then i dip the brush into my water making sure half to two thirds of the bristles go into the water. I take the brush and put it in the ink on my mixing plate and mix the water with the ink.
16. Next i get a fine detail brush and get some of the black ink onto the brush and run it over all the recess in the armour (these recess areas should already be dark as drybrushing would have left them with chaos black undercoat). I also run the ink over all boltgun metal areas except the gun.
17. For the gold/brass areas i run brown ink over them.
18. For parts of the model that get a lot of use i use chesnut ink (i.e the main engine ports of a jump pack, back vents of a terminator).
I think that is it, after doing this process for a while you get into a routine and it is very easy to do several marines a day. As long as you are careful with the final details the models will have a high quality of painting for gaming models (or there abouts).