Results 1 to 18 of 18

Blood angel painters, I require assistance.

  1. #1
    DEL 707
    Guest

    Blood angel painters, I require assistance.

    My order from gamesworkshop finally came through and I'm in the process of glueing my 5 SM's together, I don't remember them being anything like this, when I played all you had to do was glue them onto the base

    It's been a few good years since I tried my hand at painting and even then, I doubt my efforts even passed as childish.
    I've tried to find a decent guide for painting blood angels, but the only 1 I could find was the GW guide, which recommends using inks which I'm sadly lacking (was out of stock when I made the order)

    Can any give me some advice or point in the direction of a good tutorial, I'm a beginner in ever sense of the word, I've not even tried stuff like watering down my paints, which I hear alot about.

    I bought some basic paints, a box set and some extras, in all I have.

    • Chaos Black
    • Skull White
    • Enchanted Blue
    • Sunburst Yellow
    • Goblin Green
    • Blood Red
    • Bronzed Flesh
    • Mithril Silver
    • Snakebite Leather
    • Red Gore
    • Boltgun Metal
    • Shining Gold


    I also have black and white spray cans, not sure if the black works anymore.

    I really appreciate any advice

  2. #2
    Spawn wrangler SilverTabby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Painting FAQ

    Watering paints

    mould lines

    Undercoating

    How to avoid shaky hands when painting

    Basic layering

    Very basic Blood Angels

    The GW site guide to painting Blood Angels

    Personally, my advice would be to purchase the colour 'Mechrite Red'. You can use this as a very effective basecoat, then paint over it with Red Gore or Blood Red (which you own both of). That gives you a basic red marine, and from there you can experiment with shading/highlighting/etc.

    Alternatively, if you are going to paint straight with Red Gore or Blood Red then undercoat the model in white. It will still take several layers of watered paint to get good coverage, but it won't be quite so demoralising
    My homepage

    There are 2 rules to being a success in life:
    1. Never give out all the information.

  3. #3
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Thanks, I'll give those a read through

  4. #4
    Well, one bt of advice I can give is for highlighting the armor.
    I usually use mechrite red as a base, but since you dont have that, i can help you work with what you have.

    First prime with black. Then use the gore mixed with equal amounts blood red, as a base color. apply it over all the armour except recessed areas where you would leave a thin line of black. then, highlight edges with blood red. For a final highlight I usually use blood red mixed with dwarf flesh. but a touch of bronze flesh mixed with blood red should be a good final highlight. On the final highlight, just apply to the highest areas and the places that would catch the most light, like corners and the like

    here are a few examples of my method (i used dark flesh ink mixed with black ink to get the shading on this one, though.)
    Blood angels champion
    Banner Carrier
    Priest

    The man behind the madness, '09!
    Doing Commission work. PM me for information or go to my Facebook site
    Miniature 3D Canvas

  5. #5
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Unfortunately I can't find my black spray can at the moment, was looking forward to doing a black and white undercoat on different models then looking at the results

    So far, I've gone with a white undercoat, 1 layer of red gore and now 2 layers of blood red. Must say I was quite disheartened at 1st, the 1st layer came out very patchy, but after the 2nd and 3rd layers the paint job seems a lot more even. As much as I don't want to pat myself on the back, it's a vast emprovement over my old work, probably because I never heard of layering and only used 1 coat (god bless the internet, if only I had u back then)

    As for the watering down, after playing around, I'm using about a 1:1 ratio, maybe a touch more paint then water. I went very watery with the red gore, which is why i think it went quite patchy.

    I am thinking about maybe doing another coat of blood red, but I'm starting to worry about losing detail. How many layers does everyone else normally use? Should I do another but use a higher ratio of water?

    Getting a bit tired of all this red, so about to have a go at a choas black trim. Wish my camera was decent enough to take a picture.

    1 other question about assembly, on the 3 I've made, I've left their guns and backpacks off, but does any1 else leave more off? I could see it being a lot easier to paint the chest if I left the arms off.

  6. #6
    Member Ethrion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Shoulder to shoulder with Captain Invictus
    The GW guide on the website is good, and when they recommend using an ink or something you dont have, I guess maybe just skip that particular step. I have done that on occasion.



  7. #7
    I leave the backpack and arms/weapons off as well, adding them after I've done the chest details, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. It lets you get full coverage on everything.

  8. #8
    Spawn wrangler SilverTabby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    If you have the Space Marines who have seperate arms, I'd glue the whole marine together, leaving off only the gun. The details that are hard to get to beneath the backpack will never be seen (and there aren't very many there anyway), and the only real one that needs attention would be the chest details, which are only really covered by the boltgun itself.

    It just saves faffing around with seperate pieces, and so long ass you use the gun as a positioning thing when sticking the arms on, you should be fine. Good luck!

    And Red Gore is naturally a patchy colour, don't be disheartened by the needing multiple thin layers. It takes me an average of 3-4 layers before I get a red I'm happy with, and thats before any highlighting happens. If the paint is obscuring detail, it's too thick. Put on one coat, let it dry (which should ony take a minute or two - or you can hairdryer it) and then apply the next. White undercoat is your friend if you are going with straight Red Gore as your base colour.

  9. #9
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Managed to get a bit more done tonight, even had a bash at the highlighting, which gave mixed results
    Some of the lines look out of place while some are hardly noticable, took quite some time to do the highlight above his eyes, but you can't even see it! Too scared to have another go at it though.

    Was going to have a go at trying to add more depth to the eyes, but think the green I've put on is far too light.

    The chest detail and the thing on this leg came out pretty badly, didn't help that I completely forgot that they were going to be different colours and ending up with 3 shades of red.

    Going to try to do his boltgun and backpack tomorrow.

    Here's some pics in the mean time, I managed to find the correct settings on my camera. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.








  10. #10
    Member KillerHappyFace's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles
    It's always painful to get mold lines pointed out for you after the fact, but there's one on top of the helmet.

    All in all, this is a very good piece of work considering that this is the first time painting in a while. It's nice to see someone use the old scheme for a change. If you have them, I would check the 40K Big Black Book and the SM Codex for extremely in-depth guides to painting BA's/SM's that will fix most of the problems that you are having, most particularly the eyes, recess shading, and undersuit coloration in the BBB, and the Purity seals from the Codex.

    The chest eagle is always a bitch to do with yellow, but here's an approximation of what you need/need to do to do it right.

    You need:
    -Extra fine non-GW detail brush (most general hobby shops carry them on the cheap)
    -Iyandin Darksun Foundation
    -Bad Moon Yellow
    -Skull White (one you've already got)

    First cover the whole area with Iyandin Darksun, possibly needing a second coat. Afterwards, take your detail brush and paint the bird, and the bottom 2/3 of each individual feather with Bad Moon Yellow. Mix a 50/50 ratio of BM Yellow and White and apply to the most extreme raised edges such as the uppermost edges of the bird and tail feathers and the lowermost portions of the feathers.
    The night is always darkest just before it goes pitch black.

  11. #11
    Member SocietySoldier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dirty Jerzzzzzz
    those look damn fine for a first
    the reds turned out really well
    the greens and yellows need some highlights or something
    so do the blacks
    and the parchment on the seal is too white, definitely bleached bone it or use some browns to undercoat it then build up to white

  12. #12
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Thanks for all the feedback

    For highlighting the blacks, can anyone recommend me a mixture?
    For highlighting the shoulder pads, should I just highlight the outer edge of the black rim, or the inner edge as well?

  13. #13
    Spawn wrangler SilverTabby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Highlighting blacks: I'd go black, 50/50 Black and Codex Grey, then Codex Grey. If you want a slightly higher colour after that, then Fortress Grey

    As to where you put the shoulder highlights - thats up to you. Do whatever you think looks good.

  14. #14
    DEL 707
    Guest
    any idea for the paints I have though?

  15. #15
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Finally got around to finishing him today, photo's came out a little dark though.









    Must say I did have quite a bit of fun with the little guy, looking forward to starting on my next

    Few questions though, when I'm handling the model during painting, I'm getting a lot of paint chipping of, especially on top of the head and the bottom feet/legs, is this anything to do with my paint mixture?

    I'm still playing around with highlighting, I gather there should be 2 highlights (at the moment I'm only doing 1).
    So say my base colour is red gore, the 1st highlight would be something like blood red as a thin line around the edges, then the 2nd highlight would be something like Blazing orange, but be an even thinner line.

    I'm thinking of making an order tomorrow and getting a few more paints, also see if their inks are back in stock. Any recommendations on some must haves?

    I had a rummage around in the garage and managed to find some of my old models, sadly most have been damaged, but I found about 15 or so that are paint ready, including an old epic titan I bought on the simple face that he looked cool

    1 of my old Space marines from about 14 years ago




    Here are the surviving models, mostly Eldar, with a Dreadnaught with dents on it, I used it for air rifle practice once...



    Would love to have a go at painting some of those eldar, but again I need suggestions for a few paints.

  16. #16
    Member SocietySoldier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dirty Jerzzzzzz
    now all ya gotta do is remove those mold lines and repaint the removed spots
    the marine looks excellent though other then the pesky mold lines
    i think your old one needs a facial lol
    leave him in some diluted simple green to get rid of all the old paint and you can re-paint him

  17. #17
    Member Sir Clausel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    In the middle of a giant donut, eating my way out! yum!
    well I would take some Chaos black and thin it heavily down and paint a small line around the shoulderpad. there were the black trim is starting. as I can see on the pics some red paint is were it shouldnt be. anyway top notch work there!
    STV-1138: Sir Clausel wins a internet!
    Targaryen: Sir Clausel wins another internet!
    Winterdyne: Sir Clausel wins yet another internet!
    Relic Yearbook 2008

  18. #18
    DEL 707
    Guest
    Thanks again for all the feedback, wouldn't have got anywhere without you guys.

    Starting to prep my next model, in the process of removing the mold lines, once he's done, I might go back and redo the 1st model.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •