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Weathering with pastel powders

  1. #1

    Weathering with pastel powders

    While considering which weathering tutorials to write up and where I would start I realized I have a Tamiya 2.5 Ton Cargo Truck sitting on my desk. Although it's not a 40k I'm going to use most of the techniques in my arsenal to get it finished and realized this made it the perfect tutorial project.

    First up is an introduction to weathering with pastel powders. I'm using "Doc O'Brien's" for this tutorial. I'm happy with the product, and you get a few colours it's harder to match with art store pastel sticks, but you can do this much less expensively with generic art pastels and some sandpaper.

    This is the un-weathered cab. I have base coated the interior and painted the seats.



    The colors I'm using are "Rust Red," "Rust Brown," "Grimy Black" and "Dirt Brown." I will use Testors enamel thinner sparingly as we go - and that bottle will likely last me several years.



    I bought a $3 of crappy brushes to use with powders. I took one of them and cut it off about 10mm or 1/4" from the ferrule. Using this brush I applied "Rust Red" in a generous layer. You can blow off, brush off or wipe off excess - like I do in the next step.



    Using another cheap brush I applied some enamel thinner and wiped away a bit of the "Rust Red" powder. This also helps get the remaining powder into the recesses and will bind it more permanently to the model. In the image on the right I have added the "Rust Brown" powder.



    Application of more thinner (left) and "Dirt Brown" (right).



    Application of "Grimy Black" gives us the finished image for the deck plate. In the bottom image you can see where I stippled the rust near where feet would kick getting into the truck. Always remember that corners will be more heavily weathered in most vehicles. I applied additional black, and then thinned heavily, where the driver's feet would rub.



    These techniques and materials can be used to create incredibly realistic rust, dirt and grime and are very well suited to vehicles. Use them on engines, treads, bolts, hatches... anywhere you'd expect to find gunk and rust.

    Feedback would be appreciated and I'll be happy to answer any questions.

    Next up... playing with oil!
    Last edited by misterjustin; 12th Jun 09 at 1:10 PM.
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  2. #2
    you just brush the enamal thinner on?
    doesn't that wash away the pastels?

    and i can understand how this would work on a model using enamals but does it also work on the acrylic based foundation/citadel paints?

  3. #3
    Good questions.

    Yes, I brushed the enamel on - the idea was to wash away some/most of the pastels. Compare the quantity of red in the first photo to the second, pre/post thinner. As I mention in the tutorial the thinner also helps move some of the pastel into the recesses and adhere to the paint better overall.

    The enamel thinner, pastels and, in the next tutorial, oil paints were all applied over an acrylic base. In this particular case I used a Tamiya acrylic -- but I have applied it over GW colours as well on a regular basis. My Armored Company, if you can find pics, is a good example of that.

    What enamel thinner can do is darken the basecoat. If you're not going to add weathering over the whole area you can seal the acrylic layer first -- any gloss sealer will do... including putting some Future floor polish in your airbrush. Really.

    Again, good questions.

  4. #4
    Very very nice! I may have to try this in combination with my weathering.
    This would acctually be really good on the metal areas of my vehicles, while keeping my "regular" weathing/chipping on the painted areas... hhmmmmmm!

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  5. #5
    Metal areas... yes...

    Actually, this works extremely well on metals. I use it for rust all the time. Well, almost all the time.

    I'm also going to be posting a tutorial on using oils to weather metals soon too. I'm using the technique on my "Steam Buddha" from Armorcast.

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